Boulter Camray 2 Boiler Manual

• Boulter Camray 2 Boiler Manual

Hi,Was wondering if anyone could offer some advice on a lockout problem I have with my Camray 2 oil boilerDescription of problem is as follows.From a cold start The fan runs. The ignition system sparks. The burner ignites.

I can now play with the thermostat and switch the boiler on/off (before it has a chance to heat up too much)At some point the boiler will switch off when the water is hot enough. It will now not reignite till allowed to rest for a long period of time.From a warm start The fan runs. The ignition system sparks. The burner does not ignite. The lockout activates after the ignition runs for several seconds. There is a bi-metalic strip that heats up and activates the lockout.

I have verified this is happening every time it fails to ignite.There is a second bi-metalic strip and magnet in the control box that, from what i can tell, serves to speed up a warm start by firing the ignition spark immediately upon pressing the reset button. I have reset this manually to prevent this from happening when the system is warm to see if this is the cause, but it had no effect.I believe i have plenty of oil pressure - no real way of checking, but symptoms do not seem to indicate this to be the problem.What seems to be happening is the solenoid controlling the oil flow is sticking. Is this a known issue? My reasons for this are based on: I have probed (with a multimeter) the solenoid control in both the working and not working conditions and the voltages are identical.

I have watched the burner output and see no oil being vaporised from the burner when the ignition spark is firing.Is there any way to test this i.e to force open to valve. So far this is only a theory and I don't know any way to verify this. Any ideas greatly appreciated.Thanks Steve. Srf,Most un-lightly that the solenoid is sticking, as both measured voltages are the same, but will go along with your assumption that the valve is not releasing any oil as no vaporisation is occuring at ignition. Can you trace where the 'Open Sol.' Signal is coming from?

As you have measured the supply voltage to the sol. You could force the issue by disconnecting the sol. Feed supply and connect a separate supply to the sol. And check it operates (little click), with the oil supply off, but take CARE.

Some good news, some bad.1st the good.The boiler is now working2nd the badI don't know why!!Thats not completely true. I removed the control box to measure the resistance of the solenoid coil and to make sure I was measuring the correct leads I moved them around.

I then measured the resistances and reassembled. It has not failed since then and I'm not about to touch it again to verify this is what fixed itSo it was most likely a open circuit in the leads connecting the solenoid coils.Out of curiosity, can anyone tell me what the 3 connections to the solenoid coil are - labelled A, D and C - I guess C is common, but what are the other 2?thanks.

I'm hoping someone can give me a bit of advice. I have recently moved into a house that has a Boulter Camray II Oil fired boiler.Its started to leak.I've had a number of 'so called' plumbers around that have said various things, one that it can be repaired 'really easily', one that said 'Oh the seals have gone' you need a new bolier and one that said 'You can't get Oiled fired boliers anymore!Its a model 65/85 and it does look like water is coming from underneath the system (i.e its not an oil leak and its not a leak on any pipes in or out).Can it be repaired. I.e is it cost effective to do so?

Boulter Camray 2 Boiler Manual

Or is it better to get a new one? Its looks like it was first maintained in 1994. So I'm guessing it was installed sometime between 1992 - 1993 so its well over 12 years old. Is that old for an Oil boiler??Any advice would be much appreciated.

I've had enough of the Plumber sucking through his teeth routine, saying 'ooh thats gonna cost ya!' It would be good for me to know what they are talking about! First thing I would do is buy 4 or 5 bottles of Radweld and put it in the system. Then run it round for an hour or two and the leak will probably stop.

This will give you some thinking time so you can sort out what to replace it with.If you know the right people who will help, you COULD take the water jacket out and get the hole welded up, but I doubt any boiler people will do this as it's risky business. The normal approach is a new boiler, I don't think the water jacket is available as a spare any longer.Boilers can go in a few years if corrosion inhibitor isn't used and the system isn't cleaned out when the new boiler goes in.Reply to 'Plumbers'1)it is not an 'easy' repair.2) I presume the seals have gone as a polar bear has turned up as there aren't any other seals.3) If you get the last bloke back in, I will drop a non-existant, brand new oil boiler on his foot.Approximately where are you?